Many nomads suggested this location. Matt Spear and Hannah Fox frequent it and recommended me their beloved coffee shops. Ramón Morcillo from MapMelon loves Chiang Mai so much that he settled here. And it's just one short flight from my current base in Kuala Lumpur. My partner and I journeyed here for two months, blending work with exploration.
Slow travel preparations
When I started researching Chiang Mai, the burning season popped up. From late January to mid-April, agricultural burning and forest fires make Chiang Mai unbearable. Air pollution affects me a lot, so I checked which months offer the best air quality.
Then, we checked the current Thai travel visa rules. Despite the confusion around the allowed stay in Thailand, we got the 60-day visa free on arrival. That applied to my Polish and my partner’s Malaysian passports. Therefore, double-check the rules for your circumstances.
Similar to our last year’s stay in Da Nang, Vietnam, we aimed for a long-term stay in Chiang Mai. We prefer a slower pace, with enough time to hang out with friends and explore the city. After finding affordable direct flights and a nice apartment, we stayed in CNX from mid-June to mid-August.
Piotrek Bodera
How did Chiang Mai accommodate us?
After nomading together in Japan, Europe, Vietnam, and Malaysia, we established our work and travel routine. We occasionally work from cafes or co-workings, but a spacious apartment is what we prefer. Therefore, we were pleased with what we found on Booking.
Piotrek Bodera
Two months in Astra Residence
It was a one-bedroom apartment with a kitchen, a balcony, and washing machine. My partner worked at the table, I standed by the kitchen counter. What we liked about Astra:
- Big, comfy bed with a firm mattress
- Commutative and supportive host
- Once asked, we got extra necessities like bowls, bedspreads, pillows, and towels
- Quick turnaround for technical issues with aircon or water supply
- Ability to pay for the weekly cleaning via bank transfer instead of cash
- Dedicated space where delivery couriers could leave food and packages
- Small swimming pool on the rooftop for a refreshing dip
- Decent Wi-Fi quality
- A cafe and a small grocery store downstairs
What we didn’t like:
- Small and uncomfortable sofa. Sitting for longer than sixty minutes was hard
- Inferior quality Smart TV
- Many cracks and stains on the walls
- Crammed gym without open space
- Guests who, despite the house rules, were smoking cigarettes and marijuana on the balcony
Workouts at Pump Fitness 2.0
Since we workout 3-4 times a week, we love a high-quality gym. After checking a few places around Astra, we found Pump Fitness 2.0. And it delivered! A 5-story building with loads of machines, free weights, racks, etc. They are also distributors of gym equipment throughout Asia. Which means they often replace and add new stuff.
The Wi-Fi and music had frequent issues. But that wasn’t a big deal. Cleanliness, ample space, and fair monthly rates made it a great choice for us.
Public Swimming Pool at Chiang Mai Land
Besides the gym, I love swimming. Nothing cools down a hot day better than water submersion. And nothing beats spine stretching in the pool. Hence, I was pleased to find this public sports facility 10 minutes away from the apartment.
The showers and changing rooms were a bit run down. Still, the Olympic-sized pool was clean and maintained. I could pay via QR code for the entrance and lockers. Weekdays saw few attendees during my visits.
Our favorite restaurants in Chiang Mai
During our previous visit in Thailand, we discovered khao soi. It was during a cooking class in Koh Lanta, in the south of Thailand, where we learned about this delicious soup. Coconut milk and a spicy red curry are the rich base. Topped with crispy noodles and a squeezed lime. So we were eager to visit Chiang Mai where the khao soi is a staple.
Besides excellent Thai food, we discovered other high-quality international cuisines. Some places we enjoyed were:
- T-Square Street Food stalls were we frequently ate our favorite khao soi, Pad Thai, papaya salad, and sweet roti
- Hummus Garden, a Middle Eastern restaurant with excellent varieties of shakshuka, hummus, and freshly baked bread
- Why Not? Italian restaurant with imported original ingredients that made their pasta, pizza, and tiramisu delicious
- Ming Kwan vegetarian buffet with a great variety of Thai dishes where locals eat
- VEGAN MAMA stall in famous One Nimman historical shopping center with sizeable portions of tasty Thai food
- The Swan Burmese restaurant, where we discovered the unique flavours of Burmese cuisine
- 86 Eighty Six was a proper Japanese style ramen restaurant with a tasty vegan option
Additionally, we often ordered food via Grab from these places:
- Food4Thought offered the Burmese salad in a wrap, which was my go to lunch
- Goodsouls Kitchen made fresh protein balls that we loved
- Masala Magic became my Indian food provider with their wide selection of vegetarian options and high-quality dishes
- The Bowl Spot prepared poke bowls that we always seek during our travels
Famous Chiang Mai Café Scene
I enjoy my afternoon coffee. So plentiful great coffee shops positively surprised me in Chiang Mai. Chain-wise, a few Starbucks existed, which I omitted. Because, each local coffee shop offered a unique high-touch experience. These were my favorites:
- Bualuang Studio was a cozy house with koi fish in the pond and art on the walls. I loved the serene atmosphere as it's placed next to a San Sai Luang park I frequented weekly
- The Baristro Asian Style was a Japanese zen garden with spacious outdoor and indoor seating areas. Besides the coffee, they offer a wide range of matcha drinks and desserts
- The Toys Club was a small, quirky coffee shop with a surprising collection of Japanese retro video games and toys. You could even play NES or PlayStation 1 consoles on old CRT TVs
Check my complete Google Maps list of colivings, coworkings, cafés, hikes, parks and other recommendations.
Moving around Chiang Mai
Thailand is another country in Southeast Asia where Grab dominates. Which is convenient. My app, once configured in Malaysia, automatically switched to services in Thailand. From my previous trips, I know it works the same in Indonesia, Vietnam, and Singapore.
Nevertheless, I'm glad that Bolt also works in Chiang Mai. For each ride, I compared rates and car availability. Choosing one that was cheaper or readily available.
Overall, riding in Chiang Mai was much calmer than in most of Asia. Drivers almost never honked. No speeding. We were shocked that they even stopped to allow pedestrians to cross the street!
At some point it would be great to have trains in Chiang Mai. Still, the city is accessible by e-hailing apps. Especially since plenty of them are electric, spacious, and comfortable.
Thai payment complexity
QR codes are becoming an accessible standard in Thailand. Still, for each transaction, we needed to check which payment method was compatible. To learn more read my dedicated article on that topic.
Piotrek Bodera
Slow travel offers extra benefits in Chiang Mai
Planning our trips in advance allows us to select affordable flights that don't affect our work schedule. This means we avoid taking time off. Then the cost of living in Chiang Mai was lower than in Kuala Lumpur. Which gave us more savings while allowing us to experience a different culture.
Moreover, I bought an excellent custom made suit and leather shoes in Chiang Mai. It's not my usual souvenir. Yet, a special occasion is approaching. So I was pleased to find a high-quality tailor and shoemaker. It was cheaper than in Malaysia or Europe, yet the product quality was top-notch. Further details will emerge by year's end.
Over to you
What was your experience in Chiang Mai? Did you find it as cozy as we did? Or did the lack of seaside and burning season mede you crossed it off your list?
Reply and tell me what you think. I strive to respond to every comment, and I'd love hearing from you.
See you next Tuesday.
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